Thursday, 3 June 2010

A geometric theorem in Emporio Armani men’s line


Emporio Armani presents Men’s Collection Autumn/Winter 2010-2011. Presented with precision and imagination, reflecting the energetic outlook of a man totally committed to the future, this Emporio Armani collection is an authentic statement of style, clear-cut and focused on a single target. It is based on the values of geometry and interpreted through a new graphic code that explores five essential symbols – the square, the triangle, the rectangle, the circle, and the rhombus – which are treated in tone on tone shades to add fluidity and weight to the fabrics.

One symbolic colour runs through the whole collection – grey – a recurrent reference to the urban mood, the landscape of the big city: asphalt grey, slate grey, rainy day grey, wet grey. Here is a seeming infinity of grey tones depicting the metropolitan universe, incorporating phosphorescent flashes such as highlighter yellow, fluorescent green, pink, violet and metal.

If the key to the collection is belief in progress, the leitmotif is a linear restraint. Here the message is clear: excess and exaggerated ostentation are not the qualities that appeal to a young man of true character. Consequently the line is structured around slim proportions and graphic silhouettes and details: narrow trousers and jackets with sharp lapels, well-constructed shoulders with rolled seams that add shape in a subtle way, and dynamic fastenings, including zips, that add a techno edge to the clothes; a single click accesses the pockets, or opens and closes the jackets, overcoats and gilets.

Other touches of high tech design that define the collection include micro dots embossed on nappa leather with a heat treatment, and the application of rubber to trousers, creating a belt effect. Wool knits are treated to achieve a jersey look, with fluid tone on tone patterns on plain dyes, while the reversible neoprene for overcoats and cabans creates a compact and energetic impression.

Particular attention has been paid to the range of accessories that reprise and develop themes from the collection. These are presented in linked groups. For example, bags, briefcases and urban traveller bags all come with perfect finishes and striking details such as fluorescent linings. Shoes return to lightweight materials which contrast with their potent shape: from commando boots to derby styles with the toe defined by a short zip, and from boots with neoprene reinforcement to the new Emporio Armani/Reebok and EA7/Reebok collaborations.


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